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Features 2023 AUTUMN
Young Shop Owners Revitalize Markets More and more young people open their own stores or take over their family’s businesses in traditional markets. This new generation of shop owners is elevating the markets’ competitiveness by using online platforms and offering both time-honored and new goods that combine high quality and attractive design. The 1913 Songjeong Station Market in the southwestern city of Gwangju, boasts a 110-year history. It underwent a major facelift in the mid-2010s. The renovation, a joint project of the local government, Hyundai Card, and Philobiblon Associates, has succeeded in attracting young merchants.© Hyundai Card, Philobiblon Associates The Dongbu Traditional Market in Seosan, South Chungcheong Province, is home to a family store whose history spans nearly 70 years. Specializing in dried products such as laver and gamtae, a green seaweed with a nutty flavor, the store has been passed down through three generations. The current owner left his hometown of Seosan following high school. After working in an array of jobs, he returned to continue the family enterprise. To gain a firm grasp of the business, he committed to learning about all the intricacies of production and distribution for more than a decade. There are about twenty such young vendors at this market—the heirs of a broad range of family businesses. Ranging from fried chicken restaurants to seafood stores and butcher shops, they have helped the market enjoy a resurgence. At the Jeil Market in the city of Uijeongbu in Gyeonggi Province, a store specializing in ready-made banchan, or side dishes, has been passed down over three generations. The present owner joined the business to assist his mother. Today, he continues to prepare various side dishes by hand, including kimchi, in the same way his mother and grandmother used to do over the nearly seven decades of the store’s existence.In the past, children of shop owners in traditional markets were reluctant to carry on their family’s business. But now, a major shift is underway. Equipped with creative talent, business instincts, and technological skills, the young generation of today is recognizing the markets’ potential as platforms to realize their ambitions and goals. They do not simply regard them as a means of livelihood but as an opportunity to create brands that reflect their identities and values. By reconciling old traditions with the modern world, the new crop of young shop owners is helping traditional markets finally shake off outdated perceptions about them. They are no longer regarded as places catering solely to an older demographic where young and affluent consumers are rarely seen navigating the aisles. The new generation has introduced more diversified products and services that both reflect and reshape the character of traditional markets. PROMOTING CHANGE The Youth Mall on the second floor of Nambu Market in Jeonju features atypical businesses for a traditional market, including a bookstore, souvenir shop, and craft workshop. Established in 2012 through public and private cooperation, the mall is a nationwide model for the revitalization of traditional markets.© Twinkia The increasing number of young people embracing the opportunity to preserve their family legacy melds with proactive government efforts to breathe new life into traditional markets. The Jeonju Nambu Market, one of the most important traditional markets in North Jeolla Province, boasts a space especially designed to bring together young vendors under one roof. It is called the “Youth Mall” and represented the first of its kind when the government launched the initiative in 2012 to boost the struggling market. Today, the modest-sized mall offers a diverse range of businesses, from restaurants, bars, and cafés to bookstores and souvenir shops.The motto “Earn Modestly, Live Abundantly,” displayed at the Youth Mall’s entrance, encapsulates the mindset of these young vendors. They prioritize creating a vibrant space filled with captivating stories over being fixated on maximizing profits. The atmosphere at the market has undergone a drastic change since their arrival, leading other vendors to adopt a more customer-centered approach by offering new services such as delivery and shipping. Moreover, the arrival of young shop owners has fostered a mutually beneficial relationship among all vendors who have agreed to buy and sell raw materials together at a lower cost.Many young vendors who have found success at Nambu Market’s Youth Mall have expanded their businesses by opening stores in other locations. Some of them have even embraced the role of mentors by offering guidance to new entrepreneurs at the Youth Mall. By sharing their experience and know-how with them, these vendors actively contribute to the greater prosperity of the entire market. MODERN MODE Driven by a clear vision, younger generations perceive traditional markets as blue oceans of untapped opportunity, as their business strategies suggest. Thanks to being tech-savvy, they have no trouble using the internet and social media to reach far beyond their local community and connect with customers all over the country. Moreover, since they are not firmly attached to old ways, they are also more open to exploring new business ventures that may not have been conventionally associated with traditional markets. Ever since its opening in 1912, the Central Market in Sangju, North Gyeongsang Province, has played a pivotal role in the local economy. A few years ago, as the city’s aging population and residents’ migration to other places became an existential threat to the market’s future, ten young vendors decided to move in. They set up businesses not ordinarily associated with a traditional market, with their eclectic mix including a flower shop, a vegan dessert café, and a photo studio. Not only have they chosen unusual ventures, but the same could be said of their business models. The owner of the clothing store Lounge Ju, for example, conducts livestreams to showcase the store’s own merchandise as well as products from other brands. In today’s business environment, where promotional tools like social media, live commerce, and YouTube abound, this group of young vendors strives to captivate consumers through a mixture of content, such as vlogs, which allow them to share glimpses into their daily lives. This kind of innovative marketing approach not only helps them grow their own businesses but also works as a driver of change within the market. ATTRACTIVE OPTION Daehyeon Sanghoe at Mangmi Central Market in Busan is a store specializing in dried goods, including different types of flour. Thanks to her entrepreneurial spirit, the young owner established her own brand by selling high-quality, elegantly designed products online.Courtesy of The Korea Federation of Small and Medium Business Even young people who do not have family ties to traditional markets see them as a compelling option. Those in need may qualify for government and local assistance such as reduced rent costs, start-up funding, and consultancy services, all of which have proven to be very effective. That makes it much easier for them to realize their dream of starting their own business than if they had to wrestle with the high cost and logistics of commercial real estate. Vendors in the Youth Mall at Sabuk Market in Jeongseon, Gangwon Province, sell products inspired by the region’s history as a coal-mining center. A coal briquette-shaped keychain is a bestseller at Dahee Market, a souvenir shop in the Youth Mall.© Dahee Market The Youth Mall at the Central Market in the city of Samcheok is a popular east coast destination thanks to its quaint workshops, hip cafés, and trendy restaurants. This photo shows a gift set sold at a store called Chou Chou Macaron.© Chou Chou Macaron Many in the growing league of young owners use online shopping platforms and web portals to expand their customer base beyond their local area. They also organize events that benefit the greater community. While not all of them succeed, young vendors perceive traditional markets as fertile ground for opportunities and continuously seek new ways to overcome obstacles through trial and error. Many challenges remain to keep traditional markets thriving, such as expanding operating hours and upgrading infrastructure, including parking capacity. However, the influx of young people seeking to forge their own paths will contribute to the revitalization of local economies and the sustainable growth of traditional markets. Thanks to the innovative ideas brought forth by this new cohort of young vendors, there is every reason to be optimistic about the future of traditional markets in South Korea.#Young Shop Owners
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Features 2023 AUTUMN
Delicacies that Originated in Traditional Markets Many foods captivating Korean people’s taste buds have origins that can be traced to a specific traditional market. After gaining nationwide popularity, such local specialties take their place in mainstream Korean cuisine. Popular market treats. Twisted donuts, or kkwabaegi, are made by kneading dough into a long rope shape, then folding and twisting it before frying it. Sweet red bean donuts are made by shaping the dough into a ball, filling the center with red bean paste and frying it.© Shutterstock Market dishes tend to be cheaper and served in larger portions than at regular restaurants. The traditional market is a perfect place to have dinner and a drink to unwind after work.Photo by Matt Rogers on Unsplash In Korea, traditional markets are largely divided into two categories: large permanent markets like Seoul’s Namdaemun and Dongdaemun markets, and smaller temporary markets that open every three or five days and are called samiljang or oiljang, respectively. The latter flourished from the second half of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and their tradition continues today. On market days, the stalls are filled with regional produce and all kinds of culinary specialties. There is a vibrant energy in the air, with merchants coming and going, carrying goods, and shoppers everywhere. The permanent markets also bustle with life. Children who come holding their parents’ hands take with them a bagful of memories that they will cherish for a lifetime.The highlight of traditional markets is without doubt the street food. Local specialties only available on market days or sold exclusively at specific markets often become famous by word of mouth. After going viral and gaining nationwide fame, they escape the confines of the local markets and spread to big cities, such as Seoul and Busan, and are sold across the country. Some famous regional delicacies that have their origins in traditional markets include Andong jjimdak (spicy braised chicken) from the Old Market in Andong, Jeonju kongnamul gukbap (soybean sprout soup and rice) from Nambu Market in Jeonju, Naju gomtang (beef bone soup), which several temporary markets in Naju claim as their own, and mulhoe (cold spicy raw fish soup) from Bukbu Market in Pohang. JJIMDAK VS. FRIED CHICKEN Andong has a long tradition of steamed dishes. Suunjapbang, a 16th-century cookbook that contains recipes for Andong’s regional specialties, features this braised soy sauce chicken dish. Andong jjimdak, originating from Andong’s Old Market, is a similar dish in which chicken is braised in soy sauce along with other ingredients.© Studio KENN Andong is a city in North Gyeongsang Province where traditional houses of noble families and seowon (private Confucian academies) from the Joseon Dynasty remain intact. To this day, there are many head families of clans who hold Confucian ancestral rites dozens of times a year. This is why, for a long time, Andong’s representative cuisine consisted of a wide variety of ritual food whose preparation was highly complex. From the early 2000s, however, Andong jjimdak rose to the fore as the region’s signature dish. Having its origins at Andong’s Old Market, it is now a popular dish beloved nationwide. It is made by cutting chicken into small pieces and simmering it in a sauce with glass noodles and a variety of vegetables, including potatoes, carrots, cabbage, and shiitake. The ratio of the sauce’s ingredients is the key to the dish’s flavor: one cup of soy sauce, half a cup of starch syrup, one tablespoon of sugar, two teaspoons of minced garlic, one teaspoon of ginger, and a pinch of black pepper. Onions and scallions coated in a layer of flour batter help to intensify the flavor. The cooked vegetables add a sweetness to the dish, which offsets its spiciness. The rich textural contrast is a culinary delight. The crunchy vegetables, tender chicken, soft potatoes, and silky-smooth noodles come together in a delicious harmony of textures.Up until the 1970s and 1980s, fried chicken shops flourished at the Old Market. However, records show that sales began to plummet when spicy chicken gained favor, so vendors developed the recipe for jjimdak to counter this downturn. Today, the dish enjoys nationwide fame, with tens of thousands of domestic and foreign tourists visiting the market to get a taste of the original Andong jjimdak. HANGOVER SOUP Alongside bibimbap, bean sprout soup is a famous delicacy from Jeonju. It is made by pouring hot meat broth over cold rice and blanched bean sprouts. The version of the dish sold at Jeonju’s Nambu Market is unique because it includes poached eggs served on the side like an appetizer. The dish is eaten by stirring the hot broth and sprinkling it with laver flakes.© gettyimagesKOREA Jeonju kongnamul gukbap is a hearty delicacy that hails from North Jeolla Province. The broth is made by first boiling dried anchovies in water, straining the anchovy stock, and then boiling soybean sprouts in it. Cooked rice, lightly blanched soybean sprouts seasoned with soy sauce, and salted fermented shrimp are then placed into the broth. Once the soup starts to boil, it is topped off with stir-fried kimchi, sesame salt, and red pepper powder. Soybean sprout soup is known to have quite a long history, which is documented in Byeolgeongon (A Different World), a lifestyle magazine that was published from 1926 to 1934. But it was Jeonju’s Nambu Market that played a pivotal role in propelling the dish to the nationwide popularity it enjoys today. The market’s beginnings go as far back as the 1800s. In the 1960s, the building underwent a major refurbishment, resulting in the market’s current appearance. Jeonju was once the commercial center of the historical Jeolla Province. Hence, merchants from Gyeongsang Province, Chungcheong Province, and even as far as Jeju Island flocked to Nambu Market. When they were hungry, soybean sprout soup warmed their hearts and stomachs. What is unique about the soup dish sold at Nambu Market is that it is served with suran (poached eggs) on the side. Suran is considered a traditional Korean delicacy thanks to how difficult it is to prepare just right. It is made by cracking an egg into a ladle and semi-submerging it in boiling water until just the egg white is cooked. Other than Nambu Market, it is difficult to find anywhere that serves suran with kongnamul gukbap. The dish’s mild, light flavor and the refreshingly hot broth that leaves beads of sweat on your forehead make this delicacy the perfect antidote for a hangover. A NOURISHING DISH MADE WITH CARE Hailing from Naju, gomtang includes a clear broth and generous portions of meat. It is also known for the distinctive method of heating the rice by pouring hot broth over it. Naju used to be the capital city of South Jeolla Province, and its market attracted merchants from across the country who would replenish their energy with a hearty bowl of beef bone soup.© NewsBank Gomtang is another heart-warming soul food popular with Koreans. When one is sick or lacking energy, beef bone soup is a common go-to dish. The ingrained belief is that a bowl of this hearty and highly nutritious soup provides the required boost of energy. Gomtang’s painstaking cooking process reveals the level of effort and care that goes into it. First, the beef is pre-cooked and seasoned along with mu, or Korean radish. It is then cut into pieces and simmered with a variety of vegetables, including scallions, typically for more than six hours. As the ingredients slowly boil together, their nutrients infuse into the broth. The home of gomtang is Naju in South Jeolla Province, the birthplace of Korea’s oiljang. On market days, merchants from all over the country would fill their stomachs with a hot bowl of beef bone soup. The dish contained generous portions of leftover cuts of beef, such as offal and meat from the head, keeping its price reasonably low. The Naju region was a granary, with many families that raised cattle for farming. This naturally led to the development of the livestock industry, and the cow parts leftover after slaughter became the ingredients for gomtang. Nowadays, however, gomtang is very rarely made with offal or leftover cuts of meat. Instead, most restaurants in Naju have turned to cuts of beef such as brisket, shank, or chuck roll, which are simmered in a broth made from leg bones. When the soup is paired with ripe kkakdugi (kimchi made with Korean radish), it represents the perfect dish to nourish both body and soul. The name gomtang refers to the way the dish is cooked. “Gomtang” is derived from the word “goda,” a verb which means “to simmer meat or bones in boiling water for a long time until the juice seeps out.” Time is the secret ingredient of this heart-warming soup. THE FISHERMEN’S HUMBLE MEAL Mulhoe is made by mixing slices of raw fish, cooked rice, thinly sliced Asian pear, and vegetables in a bowl. After seasoning with red pepper paste, garlic, sugar, and sesame oil, ice water is poured over the mix. Located adjacent to the sea, Pohang’s Bukbu Market is known for the freshness of its raw fish dishes. The specialty mulhoe began to gain nationwide popularity in the 1980s.© Korea Tourism Organization Mulhoe is a specialty of Bukbu Market in Pohang, North Gyeongsang Province. It was originally enjoyed by fishermen out at sea who would make the dish with rice, a spicy sauce, and fish deemed too damaged to be sold. The humble dish can now be enjoyed all over Korea. Having opened in 1967, Yeongnam Mulhoe is known to have first sold this simple fishermen’s meal. Thereafter, mulhoe spread throughout Pohang, and in the 1980s, it particularly flourished at Bukbu Market. Thick slices of raw fish, a generous helping of cooked rice, and thinly sliced cucumbers were mixed together in a bowl with red pepper paste. Later, water was poured into the bowl to scoop up the remainder of the dish. From the 1990s, rice was sometimes substituted with noodles. Although in the beginning, it was the norm to use white fish, some restaurants later replaced this with red fish, such as mackerel, while others sprinkled soybean powder over the dish in order to add a nutty flavor. In the 2000s, plain water was replaced with cold broth made with either plum extract or sugar, grated Asian pear or apple juice, and vinegar. With all the variations in flavor, mulhoe has become a summer delicacy beloved across Korea.#Traditional Markets
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Features 2023 AUTUMN
Farmers Markets Sow Connections A new type of urban markets is gaining popularity across Korea. Some of the most notable ones are run by Marché@, a farmers market organization spearheading a new culture among producers, sellers, and consumers. The nonprofit’s projects include regular, seasonal, and pop-up markets, some of which are organized in collaboration with partners that align with its founding principles. Art in Marché 2023 took place in front of the Haeoreum Grand Theater in May. This event, organized by Marché@ in collaboration with the National Theater of Korea in Seoul, originated in 2021. Signboards announcing the business hours of Marché@, a marketplace where sustainably cultivated products are sold. On every third Saturday during spring and autumn, shoppers flock to the square in front of the Haeoreum Grand Theater in Jangchung-dong, Seoul, the largest venue of the National Theater of Korea. Some enjoy performances on a temporary stage in the square’s center, but the real attractions are the fresh produce, artisanal food, and handicraft on offer at the eco-friendly Art in Marché. One shopper points out that the market is particularly attractive for having vegetables harvested just hours earlier. “Maybe for this reason, the food cooked with these ingredients has exceptional flavor. On top of that, you can also get useful tips like special cooking techniques or how to preserve the products’ freshness.” But the advantages do not stop there. The markets by Marché@ aren’t primarily aimed at serving as spaces for direct selling between producers and consumers. Rather, they seek to build friendships and bonds through friendly banter, explanations of the different goods, and insights into environmental protection. PERSONAL INTERACTIONS Marché@ aspires to be more than just a platform for buying and selling goods. It aims to create a vibrant space where merchants and consumers can interact through lively conversations. “In a world where multiple platforms compete, the personal interactions between the farmers and shoppers are in themselves significant,” says one of the organizers of the market.For shoppers, the market provides an opportunity to have their questions answered directly by the growers who cultivated the vegetables and made the food products. For producers, eye contact with enthusiastic buyers gives them a sense of achievement that is absent when simply delivering to intermediaries in distribution channels.“As a seller of hummus and vegetarian sauces made from local beans, I find spaces like this extremely valuable because without them, I wouldn’t have a chance to meet customers,” said one producer.Elsewhere around Seoul, Marché@ runs several other markets, together with partners that align with its founding principles, and occasionally sets up pop-up stores with them. In 2019, for example, it jointly organized an event with the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea (MMCA) to commemorate the museum’s 50th anniversary. ROOFTOP BEGINNING Art in Marché offers more than visual enrichment. Here, visitors enjoy a performance of the four-member rock band HOA. Marché@ was launched in October 2012 in Hyehwa-dong, Seoul, by three women who had cultivated rooftop farms and shared a vision of farming that would be natural and involve direct transactions. Their idea was to create a space that focused on human connections and vibrant conversations, rather than simply being a place to exchange goods and money. They wanted the name of their venture to convey the concept of a market that could be opened anytime, anywhere. That led to attaching the symbol for “at” to the French word marché, meaning “marketplace.” Over the next ten years, the nonprofit organization initiated sizable and vibrant marketplaces. One of its notable activities is the Farmers Market, which takes place every other Sunday at Marronnier Park in Daehangno, near the birthplace of Marché@ in Hyehwa-dong. It attracts many young people eager to explore the offerings of this unconventional market. Additionally, the Vegetable Market, which aims to have a close connection with the daily lives of neighborhood residents, regularly opens in Seogyo-dong and Seongsu-dong, in Seoul’s west and east, respectively. Each location has its own distinctive atmosphere and concept, but all markets share one key characteristic: people engaging in lively conversations while carrying shopping containers of various shapes and colors. Marché@ follows the principle that market participants should be farmer-producers to ensure that buyers receive a firsthand explanation of the goods for sale. ACTIVE PROGRAMMING The steady growth can be attributed at least in part to the numerous programs run by a team of organizers, known as Marché Friends. They oversee the operations of the markets and promote the true value of agriculture to consumers through a range of activities. For example, they publish materials explaining how the crops are connected to farming methods, soil conditions, and the surrounding ecosystem. The organizers also arrange tours where consumers can visit farms to observe the ways farmers manage their operations and engage in conversations with them. Additionally, the team collaborates with farmers, chefs, and consumers to plan and execute projects that foster cooperation and engagement among these groups. “We drew inspiration from the history of traditional Korean markets as spaces for community relationships,” said one of the Marché Friends. “Through food, which forms the foundation of sustenance, people establish connections and engage in conversations, ultimately reconnecting lives that were once fragmented. This is the starting point of a new life.” In 2017, Marché@ released a sustainability report, titled Words Become Seeds. It declared that the driving force behind its efforts is “connection” and emphasized that urban and rural areas can be bridged through food. ENVIRONMENT Most Marché@ customers bring their own food and beverage containers, in addition to the usual shopping bags. The markets’ emphasis on sustainable practices and their dedication to reducing plastic waste has gathered significant support. People who frequent the markets of Marché@ not only bring their own shopping bags but also reusable tumblers and containers. This commitment to eco-friendly habits is seen as one of the markets’ greatest strengths. Furthermore, Marché@ has played a crucial role in raising awareness about the interconnectedness of people’s consumption habits with the ecosystem and the broader impact they can have. Urban farmers markets were created to address problems arising from mass production. This is why Helena Norberg-Hodge, the author of Ancient Futures: Lessons from Ladakh for a Globalizing World, started the nonprofit organization Local Futures. In her book, first published in 1991, she argued that the restoration of the local agricultural system was necessary for the recovery of the economy and communities of Ladakh, a region governed by India. To this end, she advocated cultivation of an array of crops on small-scale farms, so produce could be grown and consumed locally. Fast forward 30 years, the value of crops from small-scale farms is still not properly appreciated. This is precisely why the emergence and growth of farmers markets, resembling traditional markets, is seen as a positive development. They continue to pop up throughout Korea, but many of them are one-time affairs, stifling any chance of developing a sense of community. To ensure future growth of farmers markets, it is crucial to reach consumers with useful information on agriculture and the environment and through appealing programs and activities. That has been the formula of success for Marché@.#Marché@
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Features 2023 AUTUMN
A Space Filled with Fun Experiences Traditional markets, which have long been overshadowed by department stores, superstores, and online shopping malls, are making a comeback. But rather than merely regaining their past prosperity, they are now being perceived as exciting places to explore by younger people, leading to a redefining of the markets’ identities. Visitors enjoy a happy moment drinking Jeju Beer at a pop-up store at Seoul’s Gwangjang Market. A total of 50,000 visitors flocked to the market over a three-week period, creating a bustling atmosphere.© Jeju Beer Elderly women crouching in front of stalls selling vegetables that they have grown and harvested; homemakers walking briskly to shop in the most economical way for whatever is necessary for the evening meal; and middle-aged office workers shaking off the day’s stress by having a drink along with several affordable side dishes: These are the images that immediately spring to mind for Koreans upon hearing the phrase “traditional market.” The skewered appetizers that Jeju Beer sold during the pop-up. Inspired by the market’s local delicacies, these creative dishes proved hugely popular.© Jeju Beer But changes are afoot. For instance, in May 2023, Jeju Beer opened a pop-up store at Gwangjang Market in Yeji-dong, Seoul. The brewery’s choice of this market was somewhat unexpected. Gwangjang Market had long been famous as the center of traditional Korean clothing, rather than as a trendy place or a useful spot for promotional activities. Lately, numerous local and international brands have been launching concept stores or organizing events at traditional markets. But why do they choose these outdated places, now so clearly overshadowed by superstores? It’s because these sites, which used to merely serve as convenient neighborhood markets for older shoppers, are emerging as playgrounds for the younger generation. FLAVOR COUNTRY Mangwon Market is a traditional market that was established in the 1970s in Seoul’s neighborhood of the same name. As more people discovered the area, a tourism belt developed with nearby attractions such as the Han River Citizens’ Park, Oil Tank Culture Park (a multipurpose cultural space), and the streets around Hongik University.© Seoul Tourism Organization People in their 20s and 30s regard traditional markets as the optimal place to delight the palate. Gwangjang Market is particularly well known as a perfect place for daytime drinking. The market’s specialties, such as mung bean pancakes, rice rolls, glutinous rice doughnuts, and blood sausage, can of course be found all over Korea. However, the skilled chefs of the old market stalls and restaurants transform these somewhat ordinary dishes into delicious accompaniments for alcohol. Furthermore, there are so many restaurants specializing in sliced raw beef that an entire alley is exclusively dedicated to it. Even for foreign tourists, Gwangjang Market has become a must-visit destination. Mangwon Market is emerging as a gourmet destination thanks to the development of new dishes that cater to the younger generation, alongside the traditional foods commonly found in markets.© Seoul Tourism Organization Mangwon Market, situated near Mangwon Station on Seoul Subway Line 6, is another hot spot known for its diverse culinary offerings and bustling atmosphere. Similar to the nearby neighborhood of Seogyo-dong, not far from Hongik University, this market features a wide array of trendy food items alongside common street food like spicy rice cakes and dumplings. A recent addition to the culinary scene are fried chili peppers. While they can be found at many markets and street food stalls, the portions sold at Mangwon Market are notable for their generous size. Other eye-catching snacks include sweet pancakes sprinkled with chicken seasoning, and ice cream-filled marshmallow pieces with a blow-torched surface, all designed to cater to the taste buds of the younger generation. A SPACE FOR NEW EXPERIENCES Located near the entrance of Gwangjang Market, Café Onion has been a hot spot for the younger generation since it opened in September 2022. Designed by Fabrikr, the interior décor centers on nostalgia and incorporates everyday items used by market vendors, such as box tape and plastic chairs.© Onion Markets also offer unique experiences for the youth. The partly open-air Café Onion, located at the entrance of Gwangjang Market, boasts a distinctive look, with menus hand-written on large panels torn from cardboard boxes and plastic chairs tightly wrapped with wide branded adhesive tape. The interior space, renovated from a 60-year-old jewelry shop, has retained its exposed concrete walls, and vintage items have been tastefully arranged, thus blending seamlessly with the surrounding market ambiance. Here, customers drink coffee with a sentimentality similar to the feeling of eating spicy rice cakes at a street stall. In the past, Gyeongdong Market, which specializes in traditional Korean medicine, was predominantly frequented by middle-aged and elderly customers. However, since the opening of Starbucks’ Kyungdong 1960 café-cum-community space in December 2022, the number of visitors in their 20s and 30s has increased significantly.© Starbucks Coffee Korea Company A retro vibe can also be felt at the Kyungdong 1960 community store at Gyeongdong Market in Jegi-dong, Seoul. The Starbucks-run café-cum-community space is in a building that previously housed the Kyungdong Theater, a cinema built in the 1960s, but was later used as storage by local merchants after the theater closed in 1994. In keeping with the market’s yesteryear charm, the store is styled with retro nostalgia. Dominated by shops selling herbal medicine and ginseng, the market has emerged as a must-visit hot spot for people in their 20s and 30s. The operator says that it attracts over 1,000 customers every day, and more than 2,000 on Saturdays and Sundays. To get there, visitors must pass through the GoldStar Electronics Refresh Center, which occupies the first and second floors of the building. The space was transformed into a retro-themed brand experience area by LG Electronics, the successor of GoldStar, and launched at the end of 2022. It displays vintage home appliances such as black-and-white TV sets, refrigerators, and washing machines. One of the walls is dedicated to an LG LED signage display, showing old images of the market as well as seasonally themed videos. This creates a nostalgic atmosphere for middle-aged visitors and taps into the newtro (“new” plus “retro”) trend that is popular with the younger generation. The front view of 365-day Market, a grocery and miscellaneous goods store that opened at Gwangjang Market in October 2021. Popular market dishes are reinterpreted as meal kits and displayed alongside local brand products. 365-day Market has become a popular spot because it offers new and distinct experiences not easily found at other traditional markets.© LMNT & Allaround The above-mentioned Gwangjang Market also has a concept store which is generating word-of-mouth buzz. Launched in October 2021, 365-day Market is a foodstuff outlet that targets young consumers by offering a wide variety of products rarely found in similar markets. The experiences that visitors enjoy here are challenging conventional notions about traditional markets. NEW OPPORTUNITIES In part due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Korea has entered an era where almost anything can be bought online. Hence, some people have predicted that offline businesses will soon disappear. However, the reality is in fact the opposite now that the pandemic has been downgraded to an endemic. Traditional markets, for example, have become particularly strong magnets for youth thanks to their on-site experiences. For the younger generation, markets are no longer mere shopping destinations but now serve as playgrounds where tourism, culture, and entertainment converge. The French psychoanalyst Jacques Lacan once noted that the key to breaking the monotony of everyday life is in non-everydayness. Traditional markets, which have been overshadowed by superstores and online shopping malls, now have the chance to develop new types of businesses if they continue to provide consumers with novel and innovative forms of fun. In order to seize this opportunity, each market has to identify its own character and content. Traditional markets, which have long been perceived as in decline, now find themselves on the threshold of new opportunities.#Traditional markets
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Features 2023 AUTUMN
Narratives and Utopias Revealed Artist Choi Eun-sook’s works often superimpose figures from the past onto traditional marketplaces of today. By transcending time and space and harnessing the characteristics of traditional East Asian painting, the artist creates a utopia all her own. I Was with Them. 2012. Mixed colors on paper. 130 x 388 cm. Using ink, the fundamental building block of traditional East Asian painting, and acrylic paint, the main material of contemporary Western painting, Choi Eun-sook creates genre paintings that combine modern elements and traditional East Asian painting techniques. A recurring subject in her paintings is the traditional market, rich with memories of her childhood. The resulting works, in which figures from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) populate scenes from traditional markets that remain today, guide viewers into a kind of imagined sanctuary that is both mysterious and peaceful. How did you get into traditional East Asian painting? While studying design at university, I happened to fall in love with meok (inksticks), the time-honored medium of traditional East Asian painting. The ink’s concentration is controlled by the amount of water you mix it with, and in using it I came to realize that traditional East Asian painting expresses richness of color and depth in a different way from Western watercolors. That led me to transfer to the Department of Oriental Painting, and I went on to complete Master’s and Ph.D. programs in Oriental Painting at Hongik University. Since then, I have been experimenting with combining ink with acrylic paint. I think I am drawn to the wide array of color changes that can occur when water-soluble materials meet water. What is behind your choice of traditional markets as motif? As a child, I often ran errands for my mother. Unlike my friends, who hated it, I loved doing that. It was so much fun to go and explore the traditional markets. Just the sight of the parasols lining the market’s alleyways would make my heart skip a beat, and the baskets full of colorful fruits were always a feast for the eyes. My mom would be in a hurry, needing something like tofu, so she would send me to buy it, but I would become so engrossed in looking around at the market that I wouldn’t even think about going home. Your paintings take me back to my own childhood. When Choi Eunsook paints traditional markets, she taps memories of her childhood to create utopias where time and space overlap.© Heo Dong-wuk That is precisely the reaction I hope for. When people can relate so directly to how I myself felt as a child, in those traditional markets, I am just so grateful it almost brings tears to my eyes. If someone were to ask me for a definition of jeong (a distinctly Korean term that shares valence with “warm affection” or “affinity”), I would tell them to go to their local traditional market. All markets are places where you can feel the joys and sorrows of life, but it’s especially at traditional Korean markets that you can experience the uniquely Korean phenomenon that is jeong. You often use figures from Joseon genre paintings. When I was a senior at university, I experienced an optical illusion at Namdaemun Market in Seoul where I suddenly saw a series of figures from Joseon genre paintings superimposed on the scene in front of me—and in that moment, I immediately thought, “Why not try translating this into a painting?” The project I started then has continued to this day. I wanted it to feel as though time had stopped, so in some of the works, the figures from the past are in color, while those from the present are in black and white. Essentially, I wanted to create figures that transcend time and space, and that, in a nutshell, is the thematic consciousness running through my work. As for the figures from the past, I often borrow characters from genre paintings by the Joseon Dynasty painters Shin Yun-bok (1758-c. 1813) and Kim Hong-do (1745-c. 1806). Please tell us more about your process. First, I visit the traditional market I want to paint and take photos, and then I create a story by arranging characters from old genre paintings on top of them. Once I am done plotting the story, I draw and color on paper. However, before painting, I first apply a solution of glue and alum dissolved in water to the paper to prevent the meok from smearing or bleeding, and to prepare the texture of the paper. What do you use for the shimmering effect? One of the materials used in traditional East Asian painting is stone powder, which is made from crystals. This is mixed with glue and applied to the paper to create a shiny surface. Unlike Western painting, traditional East Asian painting often uses natural pigments like ink and stone dust. Do all markets in your works exist? Mental Landscape. 2020. Mixed colors on paper. 53 x 45 cm. They do, but none exactly match reality. For example, Mental Landscape is set at a market in Hong Kong, but the statue above the fruit stall in the painting is the Golden Lion from the MGM Hotel in Macau, not Hong Kong. In this way, my work is based on reality, but I mix and match elements from different times and places to create new compositions. I noticed that some works have blurred backgrounds. One Autumn Day with Them. 2011. Mixed colors on paper. 30 x 120 cm. I wanted to emphasize a mysterious atmosphere by superimposing a thin, transparent hanji (traditional Korean paper) made of rice depicting the current landscape on top of the jangji (a thicker and more durable type of hanji) depicting the background of a genre painting. Even when I change the locations at will, though, visitors who love traditional markets will still recognize them in the paintings. One time, a visitor immediately recognized the market in Gurye, South Jeolla Province, just by the camellia flower design on the market floor. You must have visited many traditional markets. Times of Coexistence. 2011. Mixed colors on thick Korean paper. 130 x 162 cm. Over the last ten years, I have gone on quite a few trips planned around traditional markets in Korea—but there are still countless of them that I’ve never visited. Some are famous for their chili peppers, others for their Korean beef, and so on; and even in the same market, the scenery changes depending on the season, so I always get a new impression. It’s sad that these days, so many traditional markets are gradually disappearing or losing their old appearance. That’s why I want to preserve as much of them as I can through my paintings. Do you have any particular plans for the future? I recently released a new piece, and fortunately the response was not bad, so I plan to continue this type of work. In it I placed landscapes and figures in and around a square cube to create a kind of artificial stage set of my inner thoughts. The background of the traditional market may be gone, but this new work still centers on Koreanness, just like before.#Choi Eun-sook
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Features 2023 AUTUMN
Korea’s Iconic Traditional Markets Traditional Korean markets began to multiply in the late 17th century as commerce blossomed. Initially part-time ventures, the markets became regular fixtures as the country modernized. Today, they range in size from modest alleyway markets to sprawling malls, but their character remains steadfast. Introduced here are Korea’s most well-known traditional markets. Jagalchi Market is Korea’s largest wholesale venue specializing in seafood. The market’s signature dish is hagfish (gomjangeo) marinated in spicy sauce and broiled on a grill. Its huge popularity has made the dish a fixture among pojangmacha (street food stalls) across Korea.© Korea Tourism Organization Exactly when the first market opened in Korea is uncertain. The History of the Three Kingdoms (Samguk sagi, 1145) holds that King Soji (r. 479–500), the 21st ruler of Silla, issued an order in 490 for a permanent market to be established in Gyeongju, the kingdom’s capital.Korean markets of yesteryear had diverse names, depending on their locale or where the nearest district government office was situated. Most only opened every five days because Korea’s self-sufficient agricultural society had low demand for finished goods. There were few restrictions, so shoppers could choose from a broad array of merchandise and raw materials. Specialty markets also existed for goods such as livestock, grain, firewood, or medicinal ingredients. Among them was Yangnyeongsi, a market in Daegu selling medicinal herbs and other traditional remedies; it opened as early as 1658 and remains in operation today.In the early years of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), commercial restrictions curbed the number of markets. However, by the 17th century, the development of commerce and industry and the nationwide circulation of the Sangpyeong tongbo, a currency in use from 1678 to 1894, ripened conditions for the growth of markets. According to Essays on Rural Life and Economy (Imwongyeongjeji), a multi-volume encyclopedia written by Seo Yu-gu (1764–1845), a Silhak scholar devoted to the Korean Confucian social reform movement, there were more than 1,000 markets by the early 19th century.As Korea modernized, the number of permanent daily markets increased across the country. By the end of the 1970s, amid rapid economic growth and rising household income, their number exceeded 700. According to the “Status of Traditional Markets Nationwide” published in 2022 by the Small Enterprise and Market Service, Korea now has 1,400 traditional markets, including permanent ones and the five-day variety. Having lost a big chunk of their business to superstores and online shopping malls, markets are now trying to regain their competitive edge by modernizing their facilities and operations. NAMDAEMUN MARKET Kitchenware is among the 1,700 products sold at approximately 10,000 stores at Namdaemun Market in central Seoul. The market began in the 1400s and now covers several city blocks, attracting an average of 300,000 visitors daily.© Seoul Tourism Organization Located in Namchang-dong, Seoul, Namdaemun Market is the largest, busiest, and most comprehensive traditional market in Korea. It encompasses a maze of city blocks, which are closed to cars, and is considered a must-see attraction by many international tourists.Namdaemun Market was established in the early 15th century and managed by government officials. In the 17th century, the market steadily swelled as merchants from provincial towns flocked to the capital to sell their goods. By the late Joseon period, Namdaemun Market was one of the three major markets in Hanyang (present-day Seoul).Since 1950, the Korean War and fires have necessitated major reconstruction of the market. The latest version offers a myriad of items, including kitchenware, food, crafts, souvenirs, and household goods. The extensive children’s clothing section is a virtual world of its own, and hundreds of cafés, restaurants, and street food stalls keep shoppers well-fed. DONGDAEMUN MARKET Dongdaemun Market became more modern with the establishment of large shopping malls such as Doota Mall and Migliore in the 1990s. Designated as a special tourism zone in 2002 by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the market’s daily foot traffic is estimated to be a staggering one million shoppers, diners, and entertainment seekers.© Shutterstock Dongdaemun Market has outgrown its original roots to become the largest wholesale and retail district in Korea. It has 31 shopping malls and tens of thousands of specialty shops and small manufacturers. This area of Seoul covering 586,000 square meters was originally known as Baeogae Market. It flourished in the 18th century, with unregistered merchants selling commercially grown vegetables. During the Korean War, refugees settled in this area, and a clothing market formed as merchants turned war relief supplies into clothes to sell them. In the early 1960s, Pyeonghwa Market opened, dealing with textiles and clothing, and in 1970, Dongdaemun Comprehensive Market opened its doors, offering fabrics, clothing accessories, and household goods for newlyweds. In 2002, the Dongdaemun Fashion Town Special Tourist Zone was established. Dongdaemun today is a large fashion district where traditional markets and modern shopping centers coexist. DONGMYO FLEA MARKET The commercial district surrounding Dongmyo Flea Market formed in the 1980s. The market trades assorted items such as second-hand clothes, antiques, used furniture, and old books. The photo shows a toy shop full of decades-old figurines and games, which attract young shoppers who embrace retro culture. © Seoul Tourism Organization Donggwanwangmyo is a shrine in central Seoul dedicated to Guan Yu, a famous general who helped pave the way for the Three Kingdoms period in China. Completed in 1601, it is commonly referred to as Dongmyo, and the current market emerged next to the shrine’s wall. In the 1980s, a flea market formed and became the go-to place for used brand-name clothing, shoes, handbags, musical instruments, watches, and household goods. In the early 2000s, when the Cheonggyecheon restoration project displaced the merchants of the nearby Hwanghak-dong Flea Market, they flocked to Dongmyo, making it the biggest flea market in Seoul. For a long time, the market’s key clientele were elderly shoppers, coming as much for the bargain prices as for the old-fashioned ambiance. Recently, however, Dongmyo has become a popular destination for younger customers who seek vintage fashion and accessories amid a potpourri of makeshift displays. TONGIN MARKET Tongin Market in Seochon, a residential area west of Gyeongbok Palace, is a typical alleyway market. There are scores of food vendors and other stores. Young visitors especially enjoy the innovative system of using yeopjeon, or brass coins, to pay for side dishes to create their own lunchbox.© Korea Tourism Organization Tongin Market is in a residential area near Gyeongbok Palace in Seoul. The market was set up in the early 1940s, and after the Korean War, the business of street vendors thrived here, as the population in the surrounding area increased rapidly.The market is better known for its food stalls, restaurants, and grocery shops than its merchandise. It is famous for its innovative system that allows visitors to fill up their own dosirak, or lunch box. They first purchase brass coins (yeopjeon), which resemble currency used during the Joseon Dynasty. Then they can use the coins to buy small portions of food from the array of food vendors. This market specializes in two variations of tteokbokki, a quintessential street food usually consisting of rice cakes smothered in a sauce made with gochujang, or chili paste. At Tongin Market, visitors can enjoy gireum tteokbokki, for which rice cakes are seasoned with either red chili flakes or soy sauce, before being stir-fried in oil. JAGALCHI MARKET Jagalchi Market is the largest seafood market in Korea. It occupies the waterfront of the historic center of Busan, the country’s second-largest city and main maritime logistics hub, and offers a variety of fish, shellfish, and dried seafood. Inside the market, there are restaurants where patrons can enjoy the fresh catch of the day either raw, steamed, cooked, or grilled.Although there is no exact record of when Jagalchi Market was formed, it originated when fishers set up makeshift beach stalls to sell the fish they had caught on their small boats. The market became permanent in the early 1920s and opened as an officially recognized market in 1972. It takes its current name, Jagalchi Market, from the abundance of pebbles, or jagal, which used to be found on the beach. The market, which is always bustling with activity, has become a popular subject among painters. SEOMUN MARKET Seomun Market, in the southeastern city of Daegu, consists of around 4,000 stores and is known for its assortment of fabrics. In recent years, the Seomun Night Market, open on Fridays and weekends, has gained considerable popularity.© Jung-gu Office, Daegu Metropolitan City Seomun Market in Daegu, North Gyeongsang Province, was one of the three largest markets on the Korean peninsula, along with Pyeongyang Market and Ganggyeong Market in Seoul, during the late Joseon Dynasty. Initially a small five-day market, it developed into a large-scale operation, then called Daegu Market, following fiscal and administrative reforms in the latter half of the 17th century. After being relocated, it reopened in the early 1920s at its current location and was named after the west gate of the Daegu Fortress Wall, which had been demolished in 1907. Known for trading fabrics such as silk, hemp cloth, and cotton, Seomun Market is credited for having been a major contributor to the development of the domestic textile industry.In recent years, the night market, which opened in 2016, has gained fame. With over 80 stalls lining a 350-meter street, it offers a variety of food and other goods, as well as different attractions such as live music and light shows. The night market scenery was featured in the TV series What’s Wrong with Secretary Kim (2018), which was based on a web novel of the same title.#전통시장
