IN CURATION
Fancy Patterns on Fine Fabrics: Batik, the Traditional Indonesian Cloth
Indonesia is unique in that the country possessesmany traditional costumes, each one made upof different materials, and each one originatingfrom various regions of the country. One of themis the batik sarong. Batik is a tradtional handcrafted textile that has been handed down forgenerations and has many applications, includingthe fabrication of traditional attire, such as sarong.Much like hanbok, the traditional costume ofKorea, the price varies widely by their type—some batik are carefully crafted stitch by stitchby masters, while others are printed at factories.Because of its distinctiveness in terms of diversityof patterns, advanced techniques, and outstandingproduction quality, batik cloth was listed asan Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO inOctober 2009. Let’s explore the history of Indonesiathrough batik and examine similarities this fabricshares with hanbok.
Traditional Costumes into Everyday Clothes
The word batik is Javanese in origin and may comefrom a combination of the words amba (to write)and titik (dots), or perhaps it is related to the protoAustronesian root *beCík (to tatoo). Whatever itsorigin, the name signifies the process of coloringfabric with natural, vegetable-based dyes, whichis no easy task. In many cases, it requires dyeingmore than once to obtain the desired color, batikmasters rely on their own decades of know-howand expertise to stunning works of art.
To make batik, dots and lines are first painted onthe cloth with hot beeswax. Next, natural dye isapplied. During this process, the parts coveredwith beeswax are not dyed and thus becomedesign elements. If the desired color comes out,the process of removing the beeswax with boiledwater is repeated to multiple colors and thedesired pattern. These batik-making techniqueshave been handed down for generations, reflectingthe cultural identity of the Indonesian peoplethrough the colors and patterns that express theircreativity and spirit.
Indonesians utilize batik fabrics in everydaylife, from work and school to weddings and artperformances. Infants, for example, are carriedin batik slings, while the deseased are wrappedin a special funerary batik. More comtemporarydesigns are also worn regularly as everyday attire.Indonesian people have beautifully preserved theirtraditional culture into the modern era
The Cultures Embodied in Batik and Hanbok
Characters in wayang puppet theater, another ofIndonesia’s UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritages,wear different patterns and colors of batikdepending on their social status and personality.Similar distinctions used to apply to clothing inKorea as well. In premodern Korea, patterns,colors, and materials of apparel were differentiatedby social status, class, and occupation. The royalsand yangban aristocrats wore silk clothes and avariety of colors, whereas commoners wore mainlywhite clothes made of hemp, ramie, or cotton.
Hanbok, is also made using natural dyes. Carrots,gardenia, and silver grass were some of the maindyeing agents. Saffron and Persicaria tinctoriawere used to yellow or indigo colors. Inrecent years, famous artists and designers havebeen adding traditional patterns to apparel andstage costumes to promote hanbok in the world.
Timeless Tradition
While batik and hanbok originate in separateparts of the world, both of these signature fabricsembody the long traditions of their respectivecountries, and have even found their place in thepresent-day. Clearly, these timeless symbols willendure for many more years to come.
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